Here is the link if anyone is interested. I did some tests with the foam and I think this will work. Im also going to try to use the files as patterns on craft/hobby foam, a technique I found on armor building site for LOTR elf armor.so may not have to use the fiberglass and resin which should save me alot of cash They used craft foam, elmers glue and something like cheesecloth for backing/reinforcing. I wouldnt have this problem if I was at home. This thread is an index to help both new builders find quality models and showcase the hard work of. I am a member of the 405th Forums (the origin of this Tutorial was from the 405th). 3D printers are rapidly becoming a prop and costume builders best friend and many of the members of the 405th are extremely talented at developing high definition and accurate models for printing. Anyway, enough about me, onto the tutorial.-STARTING NOTES: -I am the original creator of this tutorial. As I have read on the 405ths forums if you want to build armor your going to have to spend some $$$,lol. I am also experianced with Pepakura, and wish to make some Clone armour using a mix of Pepakura, and scratch building. I am about 1500 miles from home and no printer available were I am staying so I dished the $$ for the password so I can convert the files so I can take the files to a local print shop. But the Pep Viewer will print if you have a printer. I can't speak for the ABS plastic used in the Sean Bradley kit.Just a note on Pepakura Designer, if you want to export files (change to bitmap) you have to buy the keycode. If you want to do any level of stunt work, even just running or jumping, foam is a lot more forgiving. It's fine if you want to walk around looking badass. T-Bone here has built a beautiful Royal Guard helmet from one of my files. I built my custom Mando armor and helmet completely from Pepakura. Though, you'll also see a lot of poor completed costumes too. Last thing-bondo will be hard and brittle, and it will crack if too much stress is put on it. Well, you'll find a lot of quality builds over on the 405th for Halo armor and helmets. The advantages are that it isn't terribly expensive and that all the detailing has been done for you-there's no need to worry about your skill with carving up foam. You're also restricted to the files other people have put online. It also requires a decent workspace as the resin and bondo give off fumes, and since the sanding process is pretty messy (everything in my garage was covered in a fine layer of bondo dust before I decided to move the process outdoors). It takes some trial and error to understand the resin and bondo efficiently (otherwise they thicken up or harden before you're finished).īondo is fine if you have a lot of time to work on the project (I was able to watch several series on Netflix while building the paper models and listened to a few audiobooks while doing the rest). Don't start with an important piece like the helmet-your work will become more precise with experience. The upside to this method is that you don't really need to worry about your artistic ability-this is just building a full-scale model, complete with numbered parts and a great visual reference in the digital file. It takes a long time to sand everything down nicely, and the dust gets everywhere (if you choose this method, do it outside if at all possible). After that I had to give everything two coats of resin (outside, and interior with fiberglass), then one or more layers of bondo. I know I took 20 hours on the helmet, but I wasn't as careful with the less detailed pieces and they took rather less time (usually about 10 hours per part). Using pepakura models was very time-consuming. There were other costs too that you'll run into with any method (like the visor and paint) that took it higher. For my suit, the resin, bondo, fiberglass, and cardstock added up to about $150.
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